Scavo il buco sei o 8 pollici più profondo poi necessario e riempire il sotto la pianta con una miscela di metà terriccio e metà compost con 4 once di fertilizzante (triple 12 di solito) ben mescolato con il terreno e compost. Se il terreno ha argilla aggiungo circa 8 once di gesso come bene Questo fornisce un mix sciolto sotto la pianta per le radici di andare dritto verso il basso, e una volta diretto in quella direzione penso che continueranno, probabilmente fornendo una buona ancora così come buone sostanze nutritive

avere una coclea 12 pollici sul retro di un piccolo trattore aiuta notevolmente

Twenty years ago, the gardening rule of thumb was to amend the soil before planting a tree or shrub. In the last few years, this rule has been given over to a new one. Current research is to select the right plant for the right spot & plant properly. I went to The Morton Arboretum to help answer this question better. To summarize their recommendations:

1. Planting too deep is a common problem.
2. Poor drainage needs to be addressed before site selection or planting.
3. The planting hole should be 2–3 times the width of the transplant & only as deep as the root ball.
4. Proper planting, backfilling & watering, without compacting the soil, is required. Adding some compost (10–15%) is ok if the soil isn’t friable.
5. Fertilization is ineffective with newly planted trees or shrubs.
6. Spring is the best time to plant.
7. Mulch properly (not mounded), 3–4″ and ~4 times the width of the root ball.
8. Only stake where there are stability issues. Tree wrap only for thin, newly planted trees in cold weather.
9. Prune properly—removing dead or crossing branches & keeping only one leader.
10. Water properly. Rootballs dry out quickly, so it’s important to water new plantings. Water established trees during periods of low rainfall.