No Prescription
How much and how often you water depends on too many variables to give any prescriptive answer... you just have to see how your plants are responding. Ambient humidity, weather, etc. just vary too much.

Part of learning to garden is learning to listen to your plants. After awhile you will get a feel for how often they need water in your climate. I'm sorry, I know that's not much help at the beginning!

General Guidelines for Watering
Vegetables in general do better with deeper, less frequent watering after they are established, which also encourages deeper root growth.

Deeper root growth means more drought resistance, more nutrients pulled up from below, and more organic matter left behind down deep in the soil, which encourages earthworm activity for the following year.

The most important things in watering all kinds of vegetables are:

1. Consistency. Inconsistent watering can cause problems like tomato leaf curl, early bolting and slowed growth due to stress.
2. Ground-level watering if at all possible. Overhead watering can cause other problems, like powdery mildew, early blight and other fungal diseases.

Mulch
It's true: mulch is very helpful in the vegetable garden, and helping to conserve water, cool roots, and encourage earthworms, but DO NOT USE WOOD CHIPS as mulch in the vegetable garden. A veg garden is very different that a perennial flowerbed, where wood chip might be okay. A perennial bed does not usually get dug up every year.

A veg garden gets tilled or forked every year, which inevitably incorporates the some of the mulch down into the soil, even if you try to rake it away before tilling. Wood is virtually entirely carbon, which means that when soil microorganisms go to work to break it down, they have no nitrogen to eat and they will steal the nitrogen from your soil in order to break down the wood chips.

È meglio usare materiali a base di carbonio che si decompongono molto più velocemente del cippato, come le foglie autunnali o la paglia senza erbacce. Si dovrebbe comunque cercare di rastrellare prima di lavorare profondamente il terreno in autunno o in primavera, ma la parte che rimane indietro e che viene scavata non causerà una carenza di azoto in corso.